|In '96 I wanted to get into bigger sized
lowrider model cars and since they are
hard to find as a standard modelkit I
had to look for other options.
I found some RC car bodies at my
local RC store but they were just not
the right models to use for a cool
lowrider car. In '98 I flew out to Cali
to do some filming for Vans shoe co.
and that was the oppertunity for me to
go to Pegasus Hobbies down in
Greenleaf Whittier East L.A. I hooked
up with David Garcia and he showed
me the Pegasus 1/10 scale '64 Chevy
Impala bodies...the perfect choice for
my next lowrider project!
So I went home with a bunch of these clear lexan bodies ready to build a massive Chevy
|The lowrider wire wheels are custom made
using the 1/10th Pegasus wirewheels, PVC
cap and gold sticky foil.
I cut the wires out of the rim and trimmed it
so that it could be places inside the PVC cap
that I found at my local hardware store and
is normally used for plumbing.
I cut some of the gold foill and applied it on
the inside of the wheels rim and on the edge
by making a bit warm and stretch foiling it.
the tire comes from a 1/12 Revell model kit
and the whitewall is sprayed on using white
lexan paint this trick works rather well since
it holds very well is scratch proof and flexible.
The knock offs came with the Pegasus
wire wheels but they are really too big but
at the time I couldn't find a better alternative.
putting the tire in a warm bath of water helps
to get tire on the rim more easilly.
|For the chassis I used 3mm thick styrene and
created a scratch build setup using 380 motors
and gears. The motor and gear configuration is
really powerfull and result in superfast action.
The setup itself looks rather complex although
the working of it is very simple and is very similar
to the RC '70 lowrider setup.
| Two arms "cylinders" are attached with nuts
and bolts to the alluminum arm that holds the
drive motor. Two strong lines on each side of
the chassis pull the "cy linders" down to the
chassis making the car jump up. On the front
I build a shaft and big U-bar that is pulled down
by another strong 380 motor.
|I use very strong fishing cord because it's
flexibleand really though, only now and then I
have to replace the hopper line. What also helps
preventing wear and tear is to have the line run
over a piece of metal tubing with a fairly large
diameter instead of a rod.
|Here's how I constructed the rear suspension,
It's all pretty primitive but it still works. Note that
the drive motor never worked the fact that it
couldn't steer was the main reason for me not to bother.